Introduction
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While planning our road trip to Oman, I dove into the already existing blogs of others to prepare ourselves for this yet fairly undiscovered destination. Soon I realized we were about to visit a unique country, not only for its people, culture and nature, but even more the experience this country allows you to be part of. And they were right. Never before have we felt such freedom in exploring a place this way! Now we’re back home, I would like to share our experience, tips and tricks with you, so you´ll see Oman the way it deserves to be seen.
Oman is a country you should discover in your own way where nothing should be completely predetermined. I encourage you to improvise, get off the beaten track, and simply get lost. Every country has its own highlights, so does Oman. This blog does not pretend to enumerate Oman´s top 10 highlights, but I will try to tell you how to give those highlights a personal and unique twist, and even better, the chance to create them yourselves.
This blog aims to help you to enjoy your own adventure. Below I talk about places I think they’re worth a visit, experiences I think are worth sharing and additional information that can enhance your trip.
Travelmap
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Diary
Our 10-days roadtrip
Day 1
Arrival in Muscat
We arrived around midnight at Muscat’s Seeb International Airport. After collecting our luggage, we picked up our pre-booked rental car and bought a local prepaid sim card in one of the kiosks in the arrivals lounge. As car rental companies cannot guarantee the car comes with a GPS, I recommend you to buy a local sim card which makes navigating your way around Oman much easier. We used Google Maps and not once it let us down.
The airport is quite small and not too busy, so we had no problems getting out of the car park and straight onto the highway. 30 minutes later and we arrived safe and sound at our Airbnb.
Muscat has a lot to offer so after regaining our energies with a few hours of sleep, we couldn’t wait to explore the city! Around noon, we went for a walk around Al Alam palace, the old palace, had delicious lunch right at the entrance of the Souq at Corniche Restaurant with gorgeous views, visited Moutrah Souq, and strolled down the boulevard to watch the sun setting into the sea. A perfect way to start our Omani adventure!
Day 2
Muscat - Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque
Early in the morning we headed to the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque. One of the highlights of Muscat, and something I couldn’t wait to see with my own eyes. Unlike Oman’s neighbour, Dubai, which shows its wealth with ultra modern, tall and shiny towers, Oman on the contrary has a very traditional architectural style where all the buildings are low rise, with flat roofs and whitewashed walls. This made the contrast even bigger when visiting Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque: a glorious piece of modern Islamic architecture and one of the most beautiful and extravagant mosques in the world, hosting one of the world’s largest handmade Persian carpets ánd one of the world’s biggest crystal chandeliers.
Without a doubt, this was one of the most beautiful and impressive places we visited in Oman and for everyone who visits Oman, a must-see.
Tips & Tricks Sultan Qaboos:
- Opening hours: From 08.00 – 11.00 am you can visit this place as a non-moslim.
- Dress code: both men as women have to be dressed conservatively, that is: women have to be covered from their head to their ankles, and men have to wear long trousers and covered shoulders. Around the mosque there are places where you can lend labayas and hijabs for 2 Rial.
- Bring sunglasses! As soon as the sun hits the white marble stones, it almost blinds you instantly. So unless you want to be in all the pictures squinting or with your eyes closed, take those sunglasses with you 🙂
Day 2
Wild camping at Tiwi Beach
After visiting the mosque, we headed in the direction of Sur and decided to stop at Tiwi Beach. Here we spent our first night wild camping and it was immediately a great success! After driving around for quite a bit, carefully going off road to find a suitable spot, we finally found it. A gorgeous spot on a cliff, with first class sea views.
Tips & Tricks wild camping:
- Wood: Not everywhere it’s easy to find wood so it can take a while before you gather enough wood for your campfire. It’s possible to buy wood in certain shops, but this is quite expensive for not such great quality. We decided to take the odds and never had trouble finding enough wood for a small campfire though. While Oman has lovely (it can get very hot!) temperatures during the day, it still has a desert climate which means at night it can get pretty cold. With a campfire nearby, you can enjoy the evening a bit longer while gazing at the stars above you.
Driving distance: 155 km
Drive time: 1h30 min
Wild camping spot: 22.856252, 59.236940
Day 3
Sur
Rise and shine! A new day for a new adventure. I’ll never forget waking up with this amazing view and the sound of the waves crashing against the rocks beneath us. After packing our stuff and having breakfast, we drove to Sur, which was only a 40 minute drive from Tiwi Beach. Sur has 3 towers made out of sandstone which are all located at the entrance of the lagoon. They once had a strategic purpose for protecting the city, but now they became a popular destination for photographers because of its characteristic architecture and stunning views. We chose to visit the Al Ayjah Watchtower, a little less popular than its brother, the Al Ayjah Lighthouse. At first you might think it’s not possible to reach this tower due to its location on the rocky hill without any roads leading towards it. However, if you go round it, you see the Ayjah Plaza Hotel. From there you can climb up the hill and easily reach the watchtower. You will be rewarded with gorgeous panoramic views of Sur and Al Ayjah, and with a little bit of luck, you will have this view all to yourself, as most people will choose to visit the Lighthouse on the other side of the lagoon.
Also don’t forget to have a look at the little harbor itself. Here you will find something truly unique, the dhow factory of Sur where artisans use centuries-old techniques to build traditional Arabian ships. By the sixth century, the city of Sur had become an important center for trade with East Africa. Later, its reach expanded all across the Arabian Sea. Sur’s role at the center of these trade routes faded over the years so the number of dhows built also decreased considerably, but the ship-building tradition remains intact at its dhow factory.
Day 3
Ras al Jinz
In the afternoon we continued our way to Ras al Jinz where we had another activity planned: Turtle watching! Ras al Jinz is known to be the biggest turtle reserve in the Indian Ocean and one of the world’s largest nesting sites for the endangered Green Turtles. Laws are strict for anyone who tries to disturb the turtles or affect their natural habitat. However, even though there are many rules in place, tourists and visitors can still enjoy watching the process of the turtles laying eggs and the baby turtles hatching through tours run by specialists.
If you are anything like me, and you LOVE animals, then turtle watching should be on your to do list! Watching how the turtles come ashore, crawling their way through the sand until they find a suitable spot to lay their eggs. Seeing them digging their hole using the tip of their paws and then digging some more fake holes to confuse possible predators from eating the eggs, and ultimately watching how they slowly find their way back to the sea: it’s beautiful. It’s quiet, it’s mother nature showing one of her many stunning scenes.
Turtles do take their time though (surprise surprise), so if you decide to do the tour in the evening, I advise you to book an accommodation near Ras al Jinz. That way you don’t have to drive all the way back to Sur in the dark. By the time the turtles have gone back to the sea, you most likely want to return to your bed as well. You can also choose to watch the turtles early in the morning, but then again: it’s best to be close to Ras al Jinz if you want to avoid waking up at 4 in the morning. We stayed in a simple hotel nearby, which was fine for one night as Ras al Jinz has nothing else to offer but the turtle tours.
Day 4
Wadi Bani Khalid
After driving along the coast, seeing so much water and not being able to swim while the weather is perfect, we figured we had to do something about that. Time to visit our first (and unfortunately only) Wadi, Wadi Bani Khalid. From Ras al Jinz we reached Wadi Bani Khalid in 1,5 hours. This wadi is very popular, not only for tourists, but also for the locals. Once you enter, you understand why this place is so popular. After driving through these dry, desert looking landscapes, the contrast with the Wadi is immense and feels like a welcoming change. Wadi Bani Khalid is breathtaking: set in a rugged ravine, you can swim in gorgeous turquoise waters and bathe in emerald pools, surrounded by these smooth, sand colored rocks and lovely green date palms.Take a full day for this visit, so you can relax and enjoy it to the fullest.
Oh, and if you think that Wadi Bani Khalid is too touristic or that you aren’t sure if you want to make the drive, think again. It is a magical oasis in the desert. During our visit there were quite some people, and that didn’t spoil our experience one bit. Please do yourself a favor and visit Wadi Bani Khalid during your time in Oman!
Tips & Tricks Wadi Bani Khalid:
- Parking: It’s easy to park your car here and the walk from there to the Wadi is short (5 min) and easy.
- Facilities: The wadi has facilities like a restaurant, changing rooms and toilets.
- Different pools: there are lower and upper pools. When you enter, you will see this big pool. Don’t make the mistake, thinking that this is it. I recommend you to bring some comfortable shoes and climb over the rocks, follwing the water and you will find these beautifully tucked away pools. Here you find less people, and more beautiful places to swim. Especially the first stop where you have a small stony beach. From here you can swim through the gorge and hang on to small chains hanging down if you need a break. The further you go, the more pools you find, but this pool was by far my favourite!
- Dress code: in the first big pool you must dress modestly, but the rules are a little more relaxed in the upper pools. Many people were wearing a one-piece swimsuit and that was fine, but anything less would have been disrespectful. If you’re swimming in one of the upper pools and there are locals, it can happen that they ask you to cover yourself. Always bring an extra t-shirt you can swim in.
- Packing list: Book, towel, flip flops, bottle of water, shoes, something small to eat, camera, sun cream.
Day 4
Wahiba Sands
But here didn’t end our day. After relaxing at Wadi Bani Khalid, we hopped back into the car and drove to Wahiba sands, Oman’s desert, where we would spend the night wild camping. We entered the desert via Al Wasil, and drove past Desert Nights Camp and Arabian Oryx Camp. Remembering one of our few camping rules to make sure to set the camp before sunset, we made quite the mistake here. The drive from Wadi Bani Khalid to Al Wasil took us only 50 minutes, but what we completely underestimated, was driving through the desert and finding a good spot to camp. We drove all the way through the valley until a massive dune blocked our way and we decided that this spot would do just fine. Joseba nor I had really experience in driving through such loose sand, so we figured it would be best to stay at least more or less nearby existing camps and to not take too much risk of getting stuck. By that time, the sun was already setting, and being in a valley surrounded by some big dunes, the sun was setting fast. As it was getting dark, we had to use the lights of the car while pitching our tent. This on itself wouldn’t have been such a big deal, if it wasn’t for the wind. Around sunset we were dealing with very strong desert wind which made it almost impossible to set up the tent. The fine desert sand got into our hair, clothing, eyes, ears, mouth and nostrils. We moved the car next to the camping spot, hoping this would block the wind a bit, but the wind seemed to come from all directions, meanwhile our tent was on the verge of collapsing as we put 5-litres water bottles in each corner to prevent it from blowing away. The sound of the howling wind was incredibly loud, and was all we could hear in an ever so silent and peaceful place. We had to scream over the wind in order to hear each other. Our romantic evening in the desert transformed into a nightmare.
Eventually, after what seemed to be an eternity, the wind suddenly disappeared, from one moment to the next and left us completely hyper and confused behind. The contrast was immense when the racking gusts of an abating wind suddenly gave way to intense and eerie silence.
By that time, we were so tired, we skipped dinner and went straight to bed, hoping the wind wouldn’t change its mind and come back.
Tips & tricks Wahiba Sands:
- Deflate tyres: Make a quick stop at the gas station to fill up your tank and deflate your tires before heading into the desert. This will make driving through the mull sand a lot easier.
- Entrance Wahiba Sands: The desert has two main entrances: Bidiyah Castle (24km gravel road and then sand tracks) and Al Wasil (mix of gravel path and sand tracks).
- Time: Calculate enough time when going to the desert. It can be tricky to find the right entrance into the desert, as both entrances have multiple roads that lead into different desert valleys.
- Looking back, I would advise people to not visit Wahiba Sands and Wadi Bani Khalid in the same day. After Wadi Bani Khalid you could choose to stay the night in one of the few places on your way to Wahiba Sands. That way, you can enter the desert the next day well rested and gives you the time to enjoy it to the fullest.
Our wild camping spot was: 22.380581, 58.719197
Driving distance: 155 km
Drive time: 1h30 min
Day 5
Wahiba Sands
We woke up before sunrise and climbed the massive dune we were camping next to. I never knew sand could be so cold, but because sand cannot hold heat, and needs a constant source of energy to stay warm (the sun), the sand loses all its heat, making the desert nights and mornings very cold. It was an exhausting climb, as one step forward literally meant two steps back as we slide down the sides and we had difficulty getting anywhere. I knew we had to hurry up if we wanted to reach the top on time to see the sunrise. My lungs were burning as I was running up the dune, while my feet were freezing from the cold sand. After every dune, another one arose, twice as big. I was on the verge of giving up, thinking I would never make it on time, until I climbed the very last dune and was rewarded with one of the most impressive views I had ever seen. The dune we were standing on, was the highest as far as the eye reached, giving us a spectacular view over the Wahiba Sands and its mesmerizing dunes. We sat there in silence for a few minutes, staring out at the desert landscape, when suddenly the sun started to show herself, bit by bit. While she slowly became bigger and brighter, she casted a marvelous play of light and shadows on the coppery orange and bright golden dunes, leaving us breathless.
We left the desert that day around noon and I remember feeling blessed. The desert can be merciless, like the previous evening, making me feel uncomfortable and unwelcome, tiny and insignificant as a tiny speck of life in the universe. The next morning however was a completely different scenario: peaceful, warm and welcoming. We experienced the desert’s both sides, and for that I am grateful.
Day 5
Nizwa
The journey from the desert to Nizwa was the longest in our travel, and took us around 2,5 – 3 hours, including a stop for these friendly and curious camels that we passed on our way out of the desert. A tiny sidetrack here, but when I was standing in front of one, their eyelashes suddenly drew my attention (of all things, yes). Did you know that camels have 2 rows of eyelashes to help protect them from blowing sand? They look great! We sure could have used an extra row or two as well last night in our fight against the desert wind… Anyways back to Nizwa! We arrived there around 2-3 pm so we decided to explore a bit, have some lunch and relax the rest of the day in our accommodation which had a lovely garden in the middle of the center. I felt so dusty and messy after our night in the desert, I took this opportunity to reorganize my clothes, dust off my suitcase, clean the inside of our car and while I was at it, myself as well. Below in the ‘accommodations-section’ I will tell you all about this place, and why it is absolutely the perfect place to stay when visiting Nizwa!
Day 6
Nizwa - Livestock Market
It’s Friday and we are in Nizwa! When planning your trip to Oman, try to plan it around this date, because on Friday mornings in Nizwa, something truly unique happens: the goat market! I read about it in a blog before we went, but still didn’t know exactly what to expect. And maybe that made the experience even better. So, for once, I won’t give you any spoilers and tell you all the details, only that you have to be there, if you want to see something different, something exciting, and something authentic. The Nizwa Livestock Market offers a glimpse of what life was like centuries ago in the unforgiving deserts of the Middle East. No matter how much time has passed, the Nizwa souq will always be a place which has preserved a precious moment in the history of Oman. I promise you, it will be worth it and you will regret it if you don’t go.
Tips & Tricks:
- Arrival: Be on time at the goat market! It starts at 6.30 am and lasts until 9.30 am and it gets very crowded. You will see a ring, with in the middle a small circular pavilion.
- Best spot: On the outside of the ring you can stand, but if you prefer to sit, there are some benches in the pavilion. Again: it gets crowded, so chances are that all the benches are taken if you arrive late.
- Interaction: If you wish to know more about it, how often people come here, if it’s for a special occasion, what they look for in a goat etc. This is a perfect moment to talk with some buyers and sellers. They love to tell you all about it!
- Patience: With a bit of luck, goats won’t be the only animals you will see in the ring. After the goats, they bring in the larger cattle. And sometimes they escape, forcing the buyer to chase the cow around the pavilion, causing quite some chaos and hilarity among the crowd.
Day 6
Nizwa - Souq & Fortress
After the goat market, we explored Nizwa’s beautiful souq, bought (too many) spices, drank tea with the locals and enjoyed some really nice conversations. The people in Oman are very friendly, open and hospitable. I encourage you to interact with the locals, because you learn so much from them and they are always in for a chat! Later that day we visited the fairylike fortress of Nizwa, which is a beautiful example of old Omani architecture. Again, like at the goat market, when wandering around this place, it provides an illustration of the way Omani people used to live in ancient times. Walking around Nizwa and its fortress reminded me of the Disney movie Aladdin: the sand colored stones, the people, the music, the flat roofs, the palm trees, … It has it all! It probably doesn’t come as a surprise that the fort is therefore one of the most popular tourist attractions in Oman. Is it still worth a visit then? Definitely. Just read the tips & tricks below so you make the most out of your visit!
Tips & Tricks:
- Opening hours: From Saturday to Thursday it is opened from 8:00am to 6:00pm. On Fridays they are opened from 8:00am to 11:30am and from 1:30pm to 6:00pm
- Best time to visit: When you combine it with for example the Souq and/or goat market, I advise you to visit the fort in the afternoon. We went in the afternoon around 4, for several reasons. (1) Better temperatures to walk around; (2) Better light to see the place; (3) Better light for photos; (4) Less people; and last but not least, (5) you get to see a gorgeous sunset from the roof, free of charge.
Day 7
Bahla, Misfat al Abriyeen & Jebel Shams
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Day 8
Jebel Shams & Nizwa
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Day 9
Muscat
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Day 10
Muscat
We were flying back late in the evening, and thus had a full day to spend in Muscat still. So, on this last day, all we wanted, was to relax and enjoy the weather. We headed to the beach, only to find it completely empty and myself feeling uncomfortable standing there in a bathing suit in a country where women should be covered. Seeing the massive resorts nearby, we wondered if we could enjoy their pools as day guests. A quick search revealed that the Grand Hyatt offered such a service for €15 per person, providing access to the pool area with towels and sunbeds, a poolside bar and restaurant, direct beach access, and changing rooms. It was the perfect way to spend the day, resting, enjoying the weather, and even freshening up with their showers before heading to the airport that night, leaving magical Oman behind.
Logistics
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The journey started in the capital of Oman, Muscat where we collected our rental car from Europcar at the airport. This was one of the topics we read a lot about before coming to Oman. We noticed that there was a clear division between people praising the 4 wheel drive, talking about its necessity and others who said it was perfectly possible to travel through Oman driving a simple sedan.
So, what type of car should you rent?
This really depends on your plans and expectations. In our situation and as how we saw it, in order to be able to enjoy Oman to the fullest, we decided to rent a 4-wheel drive. Also, we planned on camping several days, and wanted to use our car as a backup plan if sleeping in a tent somehow wasn’t possible due to cold temperatures or strong winds. Wild camping in the desert and Jebel Shams was a top priority for us, and for these destinations, renting a 4-wheel drive was essential.
In summary, if you’re seeking ultimate freedom and plan on wild camping or visiting off-road destinations, a 4WD vehicle is essential. However, if your budget is more constrained and you aim to explore the highlights of Oman without venturing off-road, a sedan will suffice.
As for the choice of the car rental company, the reason why we chose Europcar is because they offer unlimited kilometers which takes any concern about exceeding daily distance limits away, enhancing our sense of freedom. We paid €650 euros for 9 days, what comes down to €72 euros a day and got a Toyota Fortuner.
Accommodation
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Costs
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Category | Price |
|---|---|
Note: Trip was made back in 2019 – prices might have changed in the meantim | |
Car (4WD) | €75/day |
Flight | +/- €300 pp |
Fuel | €10/day |
Food | €15/day |
Hotel | €15/day |
Wild camping | €0 |
Highlights
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